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Zagreb
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 South of Trg bana Jelačića, the first section of Lenuci's Horseshoe, Zrinjevac, is a typical late nineteenth-century city park, featuring shady walks, a bandstand, and a fountain designed by the ubiquitous Herman Bolle,
which looks a bit like a cake-stand topped by a mushroom. Until 1873, when the square was first laid out, Zrinjevac marked the southern boundary of the city, the muddy site of fairs and markets where peasants from the surrounding countryside gathered to trade cows and horses. Today's Zrinjevac is a pleasing ensemble of nineteenth-century office blocks and apartment buildings, flanked to the west by the Archeological Museum (Arheološki muzej;Tues—Fri 10am-5pm, Sat & Sun 10am—lpm; www.amz.hr), with three floors of exhibits ranging from the Neolithic to the Roman eras. Things get off to a colourful start with a collection of Greek vases amassed by nineteenth-century Habsburg army officer Laval Nugent, before moving on to pottery and inscriptions recalling the Greek settlements on the Adriatic coast. Presiding over a room of Roman-period heads and torsos is a third-century relief of the Goddess Nemesis, portrayed here as a frowny-faced woman dismounting from her chariot. Among the most striking of the museum's exhibits is the collection of ancient pottery decorated with zigzags and chequer patterns produced by the Vučedol culture, an upsurge in crafts and agriculture from the fourth millennium BC that takes its name from the Bronze Age settlement atVucedol near Vukovar. The star exhibit here is the famous Vučedol Pigeon (Vucedolska golubica), the three-legged zoomorphic pouring vessel pictured on the 20Kn banknote. There are also two rooms of Egyptian mummies, mostly dating from the Ptolemaic period, one of which has a climate-controlled chamber all to itself.This last was found wrapped in a linen shroud (now displayed on the wall beside it) bearing ancient Etruscan writing — the longest known text in this as yet untranslated language.
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