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Punat to Baska
The Kvarner Gulf
Four kilometres east of Krk Town, the village of PUNAT is set on the tranquil, enclosed bay of Puntarska draga. It's hardly the most evocative town on the island - a largely modern place made up of souvenir stalls , apartment blocks and a massive marina just to the north of town. However, there's a promising sequence of gravel beaches to the south, soon fading into quieter, rockier stretches of coast.

The main reason to come here is to take a taxi boat (boat owners tout for custom along the harbour front) across the bay to the islet of Koš1jun, about 1 km offshore, where there is a Franciscan monastery (Franjevači samostan) founded by monks settled here by the Frankopans in 1447. From Košljun's jetty, a path leads up to the monastery church, with a lofty, wooden-beamed interior. Look out for the 1532 polyptych by Girolamo da Santacroce on the high altar, showing scenes from the life of the Virgin. In one panel, a stocky and bearded St Quirinus holds a maquette of Krk Town, accompanied by St Catherine, whose right hand rests on the wheel on which she was tortured. Stretching across the arch above the altar is a large and dignified Last Judgement, executed in 1654 by E. Ughetto, whose swirling panoramas of heaven, hell and purgatory provide a contrast with the simpler but no less harrowing Stations of the Cross by the twentieth-century Expressionist Ivo, Dukić. A side gallery holds pen-and-ink drawings by the naive painter Ivan Lackovic-Croata, and there are some rather more off-the-wall exhibits in the cloister outside, like a one-eyed sheep in a glass case and a two-headed lamb in a bottle. The adjoining museum has an interesting mishmash of stuff, including a selection of international banknotes and coins, some ancient typewriters and gramophones, and a display of local costumes. Outside, a confusing array of paths leads through the wilderness of the monastery gardens, although Košljun is so small that it's difficult to get really lost.


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