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Heading up the west coast from Pula, the main road runs inland through the historic town of VODNJAN (Dignano), 11km north of Pula, with its warren of weatherbeaten

After a fifteen-minute crossing of the Brijuni Channel, excursion craft from Fažana arrive at Kupelweiser's hotel complex on Veli Brijun's eastern shore. From here a miniature train with English-speaking guide

North of Pula lie the Brijuni (Italian, Brioni), a small archipelago of fourteen islands that became famous as the private retreat of Tito, before being still accord- ed national-park status and opened to visitors in 1983. Visitors are only allowed on two of the islands, Veli Brijun and Mali Brijun,

Istria's west coast represents the peninsula at its most developed. In itself it's attractive enough, with fields of rich red soil and pine woods sloping gently down to the sea, but a succession of purpose-built resorts