Kastela | Dalmatia

East of Trogir the coastline swings around towards Split in a wide, curving bay, sheltered from the open sea by the island of Ciovo and Split's jutting peninsula. During the fifteenth and sixteenth centuries, local nobles lined this fertile sweep of coast with country houses, fortified against pirate raids to give them the appearance of castles - the settlements which have grown up in their wake go under the collective name of KAŠTELA. The castles were built to protect the agricultural lands to which the nobles owed their wealth, but they were also rural retreats where their owners spent the summer months and received guests. Koriolan Cipiko was the first of the Trogir worthies to move out here, in 1481; his house subsequently earned the epithet Kaštel stari ("Old Castle") in order to differentiate it from those which followed, and seven summer houses survived to become the nuclei of the fishing villages that exist here now. Most of these castles were converted into flats years ago and can't be visited, but the villages look endearingly time-worn and have accessible places to swim if you're staying in Trogir. The villages are only separated from each other by a kilometre or two, and strolling from one to another makes for a wonderful seaside walk whatever the time of year. The #37 Trogir-Split bus links them all - the best thing to do is to hop off at, say, Kaštel Stari, head for the waterfront and proceed eastward along the coastal path; you can return to the main road to pick up a bus when you've had enough.
The road from Trogir passes Split airport before arriving at the first of the villages, KAŠTEL ŠTAFILIĆ There's a pleasant shingle beach on Stafilić's western fringes, although the castle around which the village grew is now crumbling and derelict. KAŠTEL NOVI, immediately beyond, is perhaps most typical of the villages - an agreeable if unremarkable huddle of ancient houses with a simple, fortified tower at its centre, and not much else to speak of - save for the attractive octagonal tower of the church of St Rock (Crkva svetog Roka). KAŠTEL START, a short walk away, has a decent stretch of stony beach, and a reasonable two-star hotel in the shape of the Palace, Obala kralja Tomislava 82, a venerable pre-World War I establishment with a modern accommodation block tacked on the side. KAŠTEL LUKŠIĆ, just beyond, is marginally livelier, with several cafes scattered along its seafront. The castle itself, a chunky brown cube right at the water's edge, has been tastefully restored, and now serves both as a seasonally open art gallery and home to the tourist office, which has information on the whole Kaštela region. The Ostrog Tourist Agency, 100m further along the shore, can organize rooms in the village. Kastel Lukšic runs imperceptibly into KASTEL KAMBELOVAC, where you'll find the Baletna Skola restaurant near the harbour; serving up cheap lunchtime soups and stews as well as the best fresh seafood, this has something to suit most tastes and pockets. A kilometre beyond, KAŠTEL GOMILICA is the most picturesque of the villages, its fortress squatting impressively on a small islet joined to the mainland by a bridge. It's probably not worth covering the remaining 3km to the last outpost of Kastela, KAŠTEL SUCURAC, which is just 10km short of Split and within alarming proximity of the city's industrial installations.

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